AW 23-24 highlights: Spotlight on timeless designs The 22 June 2022 - Fabrics - Prints - Fabrics - Designs

The checks this season play the simplicity card. The lines remind us of the well-known tartan and Prince of Wales styles. Attention is focused on the choice of materials such as drape made from precious blends of wool, mohair and alpaca that are sometimes enhanced with a lurex thread.

To distance them from any classicism, colour is freed and shakes up codes by adding a touch of fashion creativity with a strong visual impact. Tweeds take on couture accents thanks to “rose controverse”, while British woollens are given a touch of eccentricity thanks to experimental and unusual combinations. The muted khaki green “fermented mastic” optimistically joins forces with tempered “tender blue” and “saucisse” pink. The Prince of Wales check, based on neutrals, is decorated with chromatic accidents such as “green epilogue”.  

This season, geometric patterns gain in optimism through the use of colour, going as far as to envisage multicolour versions. The lines evoke a certain rigour and favour checks, circles and triangles that fit together in random associations. They combine discreetly frugal colours, such as temperate neutrals, with more expressive shades.

These designs, worked in a rather minimalist register, can be seen on two or three-tone silks and jacquards, creating an impactful creative fantasy.

These “couture” colours reinterpret the classic animal prints in a very spontaneous manner. Once again, designs do not stray from the usual standard formats and are placed regularly on backgrounds. The surprise comes from the colour harmonies. Sober and natural colours such as “le molasses” or “craft” combine brilliantly with brash shades such as the greenish yellow “high tech lime” or “saucisse” pink. And in a resolutely couture spirit, neutral tones combine freely with intensely demonstrative flashes of colour such as “controversial pink” or “trivial violet”.

Supports favour flowing, shiny silks and are embellished with a choice of bright and decadent colours. We note for example the use of “trivial violet” or “high-tech lime” present in the AW 23-24 range drawn up by the Première Vision Paris teams.