AW 23-24 Style Focus: A ‘Great Outdoors’ wave sweeps through the city The 26 September 2022 - Women's fashion - Sport & Tech - Men's fashion - Fabrics - Leather - Accessories

This season, synthetic fabrics for Sport & Tech move closer to the look and feel of cotton. These new-generation textiles are increasingly made from recycled synthetic materials or blends incorporating organic cotton. Such fabrics play an important role in city wardrobes. Major items are influenced by a workwear mood. Volumes appear larger and puffier. A multiplicity of oversized, zipped pockets are trimmed in contrast piping, a perfect union of functionality and aesthetics. Parkas here are constructed in thick fabrics and coated with bio-sourced and ultra-protective waxes, promoting better management of a product’s end-of-life. They are occasionally multi-layered, combined with robust twills or windproof and water-repellent ripstops. Decoration is low-key. Twills are barely perceptible and motifs – ranging from neo-camouflage to Tachist – evoke nature.

Dresses and skirts in fancy knits round out this silhouette, anchoring it in city wear. Natural materials are worn right against the skin and showcase their thermal qualities, with new blends of merino wool and cellulosics. Knits are super comfy and cozy thanks to bouclette and neo-fleeces made of more virtuous materials that don’t release microplastics. A fully flaunted retro connotation, strengthened by decoration directly inspired by vintage ski references. Realistic mountain depictions, checks recalling traditional chalet fabrics or even Norwegian motifs wittily enliven these short, body-hugging dresses.

This playful take is also found in the use of offbeat accessories. Knee-high rubber-boot looks are given a new spin in waterproof, rubbery leathers. This is robust footwear, ready to face any kind of weather. Clothing accessory components turn to a highly visual, ultra-colorful register. In a nod to extreme sports such as mountaineering, multicolored knots, braids and cords are used as waist ties, or trim the pockets of these substantial coats.

Reminiscent of microfiber peach-skin fabrics, but also artificial leathers with a micro-velvety surface. Envisioned on cropped and puffy down jackets, that talcum-powder and suede feel is as reassuring as the velvety texture of bare skin. To up the sophistication of products, silk-like cupros find their way into pocket details and flaps.

At times a soft feel is teamed with crispier handles. These fabrics,

with soft, emerised surfaces, stand in contrast to the enhanced performance of the textiles. At once windproof and waterproof, these are fabrics for oversized parkas, with batwing sleeves, and decoratively worked in high-impact colorblocking. In pants, this softness is highlighted by casual visuals – cotton twill, denim aspects – and peach-skin handles.

Fleece is back this season, turning up in every segment of the market. Here, it moves away from the realm of sports to encompass more hybrid uses. For sweatshirts, fleece also looks to nature for inspiration, focusing on more plant-based compositions, with ultra-cozy 100% cottons and blends with recycled polyesters! Their plush interiors immerse us in ultra-comfortable cocoons. Double-faced fleece pairs its high-strength and warmth with more casual visuals. Enhanced with mechanical stretch properties, or combined with Cordura, it works its way into smart wardrobes. These ultra-comfortable, new generation garments boast reflective properties, making them indispensable for all the new ‘eco-transport’ ways of getting around the city.

Combining the useful with the enjoyable… without forgetting the fun. Buckles and hooks are surprisingly solid and vaunt a natural look. Finishings are raw or mechanically polished. The emphasis is on wood aspects. To avoid a sense of austerity, volumes are exaggerated. Chunky sneakers with large, cleated soles in natural rubber are worked in colorblock with signage accents. They’re embellished with retro-reflective stripes and accessories that are both useful and playful, for cycling or skateboarding through the streets of the city.