AW 25-26 Decoration decodings: Prints, lace, embroideries & fancy jacquards The 9 July 2024 - Automne-Hiver 25-26 - Women's fashion - Embroidery and lace - Silkies and jacquards - Fabrics - Prints - Première Vision Paris

Prints

Sublime erosions

The marks of time, wear and erosion take center stage, magnified on winter prints, to elevate a feeling of transience. Reds, oranges, and browns adopt subtle nuances evoking the rich patina of rust. Occasional shimmery effects inject life into warm-toned backgrounds. The edges of motifs grow faint and evanescent on precious, refined fabrics. Coated, laminated and metallic materials reveal a quite earthy inspiration, adorned in mineral reflections.

Graphic black & white

This season, two-tone geometrics have a new intensity, revealing graphic expressions that revisit abstraction. Black and white motifs look unpredictable, lively and sometimes elusive, challenging classic polka-dot or zebra prints. Contrasting black and white is worked on high-quality, luxurious grounds, such as serge twills, vibrant micro-jacquards and subtle wool and linen blends.

Lace & embroideries

Downy nettings

Laces are gearing up for winter. Fluffy mohair embroideries warm up lightweight tulles, for a cozy opaque look. Set off by chenille or fantasy yarns, they create a downy texture with a matchless softness. Leavers laces from Calais-Caudry – along with Rachel, Jacquardronic and Textronic lace – are denser, embellished by floral motifs in wool yarns.

Plant filigree

Sheer tulle is decorated in light, incised patterns that seem stamped into the material. The meticulously embroidered plant-inspired motifs are designed to sit delicately on the skin. Thread embroidery, sometimes finely embellished with sequins, contrasts with neutral backgrounds, lending a powerful quality to designs that seem almost engraved in the fabrics.

Fancy Jacquards

Extra-glam jacquards

This winter’s jacquards burst with shine that cuts through the darkness, like a flash piercing the night. Shimmering reflections are traced on dark purple, blue or green grounds, hinting at minerals glittering in the shadows. A glimmer of glitz seems to emerge from the depths. Cut-yarn or cloqué jacquards, sometimes overprinted, are bedecked in metallic threads, embracing flamboyance. A striking array of contrast and shines, where every detail appears tinged with mystery.