At the heart of an Autumn-Winter 25-26 season shaped by the notion of extremes, diverse concepts and proposals assert themselves and polarities cohabit, giving birth to exceptional pieces with bold character. In this context, the body takes center stage. Strong or fragile, discreet or provocative, it embraces its differences and paradoxes, owning its uniqueness. A sensitive body, reflecting the desire for sensorial experiences, inspires a quest for exploring sensuality through materials.

Tactility: Sensitive Materials 

Textiles are increasingly tactile, with second-skin fabrics infiltrating collections. Enveloping, cocooning knits as well as bi-stretch silks, charmeuses and extra-fine interlocks are imbued with a lingerie-inspired sensorial quality, whether intimate or demonstrative. Softness, too, continues to permeate the collections, with delicate variations on everyday textiles, such as emerized cottons, brushed wools and vaporous mohairs. Functional components and accessories acquire a sensual allure, with generous volumes and softened textures.

Meanwhile, a basane vibe infuses leathers, including vegetable-tanned fine and natural calf and lamb skins declined in a range of soft hues. The sensitive nature of the material is reflected in the expressiveness of the surfaces, including distressed effects and patinas, as well as in the textures, such as micro-grains, embossing and laser cutting. 

Revealing Transparencies

Here too, materials reveal more of the body than they conceal. This season, however, transparency doesn’t just apply to romantic styles, it also demonstrates a certain technicality. Worked in mille-feuille, waterproof organzas and translucent shirting, it offers featherweight protection. Embellishment, too, takes on an airy quality, with plays on wefts and openwork effects. Moucharabieh-style graphic patterns inject a new take on lace and embroidery. Textile accessories are adorned with evanescent transparencies. Laces in diluted hues appear worn and distressed. Delicate worn-out degradé effects are used as embellishments, in a sophisticated grunge spirit. In leather, the mood for transparency is reflected in subtle varnished aspects with glossyeffects obtained from solvent-free aqueous bases that recall the beauty universe. 

Daytime Drama

The sensual expressiveness of the season also plays out in a more dramatic and radical dimension. Drapery makes a comeback, enveloping the body with a theatrical, voluptuous fluidity. Materials come alive: syrupy silks, springy wools and flowing knits emphasize the body and accompany movement. Leathers, too, such as ultra-fine lamb or calf skins which evoke silky textiles are draped thanks to the development of weights intended for clothing,  

Finally, the high-drama moodinfiltrates the everyday with the prevalence of muted metallics. Dark tones colonize surfaces, from silky fabrics to leather with shimmering or micro-sequin effects. The season’s shine storyline is also reflected in the details, on accessories with shiny coatings or graphic moiré effects.

Also read: Season Preview AW 25-26: Minimalist Excellence