Accessoires Bag & Shoes AH 22-23 The 19 October 2021 - Leather - Accessories

A season where luxury finishes showcase the material. The silhouette displays extremely elongated volumes and favours a cluster of superpositions. There is a notion of balanced opulence from timeless accessories with more measured proportions. These accessories embrace warm palettes as if to enhance the sensoriality of the skin, with a particular penchant for browns: from chocolate to brown sugar, via soft caramel.

Bowling bags are produced in goat suede, delicately coated with a fine shower of sequins, or in double-sided shearlings. They tend towards a squarer shape and are decorated with hand-woven leathers, combining strips of mahogany leather with very dark, almost black, chocolate browns. Ladylike styles are produced in flawless mechanical grained leathers. Accessories components play a leading role and are elegantly glorious to revive classics from this segment.XXL clasps with watchmaker precision in slightly brashy yellow gold, stirrup buckles that dare to be outsize, or chains and precious beads that combine to infinity like trophies on handles.

In a more ‘evening’ register, clutches are adorned with luxurious leathers and skins. Hair-on goat or cow leathers in a “pony” spirit are finely sculpted to reveal geometric patterns or logos. Crocodile-style leathers are produced in various nuances of gold: antique, sparkling or coppery. Leathers boast aged appearances and hammered effects, while rising to the eco-responsibility challenge by favouring vegetable tanning.

In a simpler register, buckles are expanded to their limits and adopt asymmetry.

In footwear, high and low boots with perfect lines and vertiginous stiletto heels are embellished with buttons in oxidised or hammered metal and offer glamour with a utilitarian accent. In a smarter version, moccasins are decorated with extravagant, flowing gold chains.

A couture influence takes a grip on the season. Collections are built around tops with inflated volumes and shorter skirts, making barely-concealed reference to the glamour of the 2000s, in shades of pink and purple.

Thigh-high boots complete the ensemble. Structured around a velvety calf suede with a powder finish, these high boots slip sensually over the thigh. Sometimes, ethereal fur or feather details dance and spin under the swaying gait.

In a more futuristic spirit, leather platform boots mould the leg to mid-thigh.These leathers take their technicity and sturdy finesse from sport, while preserving a Couture-style allure. Leathers with an incomparable elasticity that dare to play with shine and iridescence, imitating silks or embossed or crumpled organza.

In leather goods, the extrovert fleeces of furs and sheepskins with their long, mobile, downy hairs, are used to create circle bags to be held by the fingertips, or regressive backpacks for a more juvenile look. Accessories components show off their perfect matte finish or a crystalline pureness.

The silhouette evokes the fluidity between the various sectors and officialises the liaison between textile and leather. Constructed around asymmetric and floating volumes, this look cultivates ambivalence around more structured and coloured accessories that tell tales of subversive chromatic accidents.

Bags are comfortable in variable geometries. Round, square or triangular, they require firm, clean and shiny leathers, ensuring a perfectly uniform colour. Box calf or grained leathers, such as Saffiano, which are enhanced through the use of bright colours to express the contrast with dissonant tones. Square, engorged or covered in fabric, chains create surprising handles.

For shoes, riding boots with a smart/sharp cut are revamped with the addition of pointed toes, asymmetry and lacquered or varnished finishes.  

A creative, expressive and unfettered style where spontaneity is king, and which confirms the season’s strong affinity with creative fantasy. An effortless but ultra-personalised look focusing on knits, and successfully combining comfort with exuberance. Arty decors hesitate between micro-Tachist markings and gigantic optical undulations, and are generously present in rich colours from head to toe. Textiles and leather are infinitely hybrid, with printed leathers and technical fabrics imitating leather and appearing on supple oversize satchels that almost touch the floor and coordinate with the dress or trousers. Innovative, extensive leathers and textiles also can be used to produce printed boots with an amplified platform, for an uber show-off result!

Sometimes models opt for plain colours but are boosted by contrasting and tonic functional details – exaggerated zips or piping and cords, taking their lead from the outdoor sports world. Low moonboots are reworked in coloured sheepskin: pink shades with rich marshmallow notes, or iridescent double-sided materials for cosy and sexy cosmonaut boots. In leather or shiny nylon, quilted and padded effects are accentuated and are accommodated in unconventional proportions. To be discovered on mountain boots but also on more urban bags to create an avant-garde look that skilfully combines urban and tech influences.