Decodings SS25 Leather: Unadorned The - Spring-Summer 25 - Leather - Leather - Première Vision Paris
Authenticity in leather is renewed this season in a more contemporary direction, enhancing the raw material and its texture while preserving its intrinsic qualities. Soft and ultra-light vegetable-tanned and metal-free leathers lend themselves perfectly to ready-to-wear, revealing a lighter, more authentic look that also features in the season’s decorative highlights.
Authentic Urban
This season, leathers come in bright, cheerful hues, applied in transparency. (see Leather Preview: Naturalness in Color).
Developments move away from basics, opening themselves up to chic, urban interpretations, with skins that flaunt their singularities and textures, enhanced by new mechanical finishes.
Grains are sanded for a matte nubuck look and embossing simulates the motifs of exotic skins, revisited in different scales. Natural grains, too, are proudly on display, with suede goatskins and nubuck calf leathers with soft, plump hands. Leather’s expressive nature also plays out in more fancy versions.
Colorful braided leathers embrace their artisanal side and lambskins are crinkled to the point of evoking phantasmagorical mineral landscapes. Taken to the extreme, these textural surfaces mimic smocked leathers, for a luxurious reinterpretation of the textile designs of the 2000s. The return to large formats in leather goods, such as hobos, allows the material to express its beauty on large surfaces. To pair with sleek, sculptural metal accessories and components.
These skins with their strong personality are also available in garment weights. A constantly expanding range, these ultra-fine leathers also come in vegetable tanned and metal-free versions. Contrasts in the visual and tactile properties of leathers are used to create a surprise effect, including deceptively soft and fine skins with a raw, authentic look. Versatile lambskins lend themselves perfectly to garments, with stretch and double-face proposals also available.
Active nature
In sneakers, naturalness is expressed through textiles with visible weaves and constructions, including elaborate weaves in pastel colors. To pair with perfectly smooth leathers for a monochrome play on textures.
Check out our other SS25 leather decodings, including Adaptation and Mutating Surfaces.
