AW 22-23 Decoration: fantasy in outerwear The 7 October 2021 - Fabrics - Leather

From bold details to expressive colors and rich materials, the full palette of techniques play a part in boosting the profile of this season’s coats. Outsized and enveloping outerwear are a canvas exuberantly displaying the wildest designs.

Classic tweedies are sent up via mad and acidic colors. They are adorned with shaggy cut yarns. Fleeces with more or less long hairs, sometimes even fringes in grating color schemes, or sparkling lurex hairs freely lifting to disturb the look of these deceptively quiet fabrics.

And traditional animal designs – especially leopard and reptile patterns – are also enlivened with shine and shimmering colors.

Whether real or fake, furs vaunt their irreverence. Light , floaty multicolored lamb furs, shorn furs that sparkle thanks to a dusting of sequins, or curly furs printed with motifs that imitate camouflage – these are looks that catch the eye with the slightest movement. In a more sporty register, water-repellent technical fabrics imitate fake leathers and fake furs in recycled polyester, to structure outdoor coats with more than just a touch of madness.

Ever connected to an idea of comfort and protection, quiltings venture beyond the sports world this season. With a heightened use of fantasy and judiciously selected decorations, quiltings slip easily into city and evening collections.

Black performance synthetics are adorned with over-stitchings, with torn-out yarns or teamed with a velvety shorn-pile double-face. A mysterious atmosphere ready to roll out on formal outerwear – extra-long robe-like coats – to be worn with ultra-chic suits or evening wear: for womenswear or menswear!

For ultra-elegant coats and jackets, padded silkies turn to spectacular geometric metallic patterns. Unsurprisingly, quiltings are a must-have in the sports wardrobe, and create a stir with the diversity of the materials and designs on offer. Boldly metallic recycled polyester fabrics, embroidered with gigantic pictorial ornaments or covered with mimetic prints, update camouflage and animal looks, and are easily envisioned on super puffy down jackets, for an uncompromisingly stylish look.

For menswear and womenswear, a folk inspiration fills our craving for escape with Indian palmettes, more or less geometrical oriental patterns and tapestry jacquards. Lifted right from an old-world caravan, lush embroideries lend a gypsy flair to this season’s coats and instantly transport us to far-off horizons. Warm and ornamental flowers, worked in bright colors on a velvet ground, mimic nomadic carpets and inject an exotic touch.

In menswear, opulent emroideries, jacquards and brocades veer towards darkly baroque motifs. Traced in golden yarns on black grounds, they update a romantic influence, and evoke a certain splendor and decadence. This is a way to introduce a certain femininity with a touch of darkness and blackness, in a wholly sophisticated way. Abstract motifs hover between camouflage and mineral aspects and challenge the eye, creating a certain ambivalence. Skillful combinations of precious materials – satins, velvets, furs – worked in subtle shades, are developed in volume, instilling an enigmatic atmosphere. In a more refined register but just as visually impactful, thick and textured yarns randomly trace out free and convoluted shapes to get lost in!

A mad allure guaranteed!