Environmental management: traceability and safety at the heart of the leather industry The - Denim Première Vision - Première Vision New York - Première Vision Paris
Supple, resistant and durable over time, leather is a sublimated co-product. Intimately linked to the agri-food industry, its traceability is a key factor in regulatory compliance, respect for best social and environmental practices, and animal welfare.
An update on the latest regulation
From January 2025, the European Anti-Deforestation Regulation will prohibit the sale of products that have contributed to deforestation. In many cases, deforested land is used for intensive soy and cereal farming, in particular to feed animals and graze livestock. Traceability therefore implies being able to circulate and share data on raw materials from the agri-food sector.
At the heart of the ISO 9000 quality management standard, traceability aims to trace the history, application, location and origin of a material throughout its supply chain. To identify the origin of hides and trace them through the entire processing cycle, from breeding to the final finishing stages, laser marking initiatives for raw hides are being developed as early as the slaughterhouse.
In the context of Leather Working Group certification, traceability is a noted section of the audit, although not critical to date, which will become crucial from the end of 2024. It will then be necessary to be able to account for all transactions in the value chain.
The challenges and framework regulating chemical substances
Another key issue when it comes to leather is the management of chemical substances. The various active ingredients used in the tanning, retanning and finishing stages transform hides into leather. Research and development evolve in line with regulatory requirements and consumer expectations. Reach is a regulation covering chemical substances that seeks to strengthen the protection of health and the environment.
Some substances are under particular scrutiny:
- Bisphenol A has been regulated by REACH and by California Proposition 65, Bisphenol S has been identified as a SVHC (Substance of Very High Concern) in Europe, and Bisphenol F is currently being studied for restriction.
- Formaldehyde is limited by REACH at 75mg/kg for footwear or clothing in contact with skin, and at 300mg/kg for products without direct contact.
- Gluteraldehyde has been added to the candidate SVHC list and its use is regulated.
To manage its environmental and health footprint, the leather sector is investing to control chemical substance thresholds, revise its processes, and ensure stringent treatment of its water and waste at the end of the cycle.
- ISO 14001 is an environmental management standard, covering environmental aspects: energy consumption, water use, effluent treatment, managing atmospheric emissions and waste, and the prevention of polluting activities.
- OEKO-TEX® ECO PASSPORT regulates chemical substances.
- ZDHC, Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals, establishes and controls a list of restricted substances.
- LWG and ICEC, Institute of Quality Certification for the Leather Sector check the parameters of environmental management.