Focus on the colors of AW 23-24 fantasy: cadence… and decadence The 11 October 2022 - Fabrics - Colors - Fabrics

This season’s suitings advocate total freedom. The visual impact of color is coupled with the heightened sensory appeal of textures.

Suitings have new, more versatile behaviors that readily adapt to new lifestyles. Innovative blends in recycled polyester or cupro have unusual, more matt renderings, with a dulled shine and a talc-lie feel. Combined with intense shades such as “controversial pink”, “clearly red” or “egg yoke”, they upset traditional approaches and inject a shot of youth into smart or evening garb. Naturally stretch, these suitings are nicely rounded, and never hinder the body in motion. The perfect way to create body-skimming dresses with a peach-skin feel and a refined cut.

Silkies for a big night out are dripping with all the external signs of wealth. Shiny, luxurious silks are treated to deep shades such as “trivial purple”. Constructions veer to long, floor-length dresses, with couture details, for luxury with a dramatic flair.

Worked in “comforting grey”, this almost dripping silk has the shifting allure of mercury, like a modern-day suit of armor. It emerges on slip-dresses of a disconcerting simplicity, for silhouettes that are a fortuitous blend of restrained cuts and opulent fabrics. Minimalist luxury for a maximalist effect!

Decidedly more eccentric, wild figured fabrics are enhanced with chenille yarns. They vaunt their shagginess in bright colors such as “trivial purple” to offset the classic cut of women’s suits. 

Plant shades, an inexhaustible source of inspiration, are rethought through the lens of a virtual prism. Colors look saturated, as if passed through a filter. Figurative floral designs look backlit. Lace worked in exaggerated plant motifs are given a refresh when worked in a “green epilogue” shade. Metallic shine adds a mysterious touch. Opulent jacquard motifs evoke the dark, shot gleams of strange forests.

Rippling smocked and waffled jacquards are worked in borderline artificial shades, such as “high-tech lime”, evoking almost hallucinatory expanded foams. Velvets and crepes with delicately textured surfaces are interpreted in deep shades, such as “epilogue green”, while a touch of the hand uncovers a new nuance, revealing subtly tone-on-tone shades.

These metallic gleams also adopt strange, dark nuances evoking distant galaxies. A cosmic atmosphere reminiscent of the Milky Way, enhanced by tinted black grounds, “gray opulence” or “relic blue”, and which emerge in satiny and velvety surfaces to boost their effect. Sequins boast iridescent, smoky shades and bright intrusions that update formal suits and apparel.