Innovations in color chemistry – A detailed perspective on low-impact color in fashion / Part 2 The - Première Vision Paris - Denim Première Vision - Première Vision New York
As highlighted in the first article of this two-part series on innovation in color chemistry, there exists less impactful alternatives to synthetic dyes actually for a long time already. Naturally colored fibres present the most immediate solution, bypassing the dyeing process altogether, along with their inherent water, chemical and energy use. Beyond this first option to consider, natural dyes offer a vast range of creative possibilities. However, as the search for viable alternatives continues, innovators are exploring biotechnology, recycling, and even carbon capture to create color solutions that can compete with the vibrancy, fastness, and uniformity of conventional dyes. These methods aim to minimise waste, reduce reliance on petrochemicals, and enhance circularity. Yet, challenges such as cost, scalability, color uniformity and consistency, as well as integration into existing machinery and supply chains are a hard reality. This article examines these innovations, connecting the dots between their potential and the obstacles they face, with key players driving these advancements.
Microbial pigments: the power of biology to create color
Microbial pigments are derived from microorganisms, either naturally occurring or genetically engineered. These microbes–bacteria, yeast or fungi–are cultivated through fermentation, a process in which they are fed sugars or other renewable feedstocks to produce pigments, which can then be extracted and applied to textiles using traditional or novel dyeing techniques.
Companies exploring naturally occurring microbes found in soil, water, and air, include KBCols Sciences, (collaborating with Albini) and Vienna Textile Lab, which focuses on organic bacterial dyes. While still in pilot stages, these companies are contributing to a growing movement towards naturally derived color solutions. Others are genetically modifying natural pigment producing microbes via synthetic biology, like Colorifix, which has gained significant recognition for its technology which is now Oeko-Tex certified, and exemplifies efficiency and scalability in microbial dyeing. Instead of extracting the dye from the bacteria, which can be resource-intensive, Colorifix utilises the fermented bacterial broth directly as a dye liquor. This not only simplifies the process but also reduces energy consumption and waste.
French company Pili Bio developed a hybrid process using the fermentation of micro-organisms to fabricate biobased intermediates. These molecules will be transformed through organic chemistry into organic dyes and pigments, with comparatively lower CO2 emissions. Their first commercially available product is their biobased indigo powder. Replacing synthetic indigo is also the aim of Huue and Synovance, the latter developing a palette with some colors offering therapeutic benefits, such as anti-inflammatory or antimicrobial properties, at destination of a wider range of industries, from textiles to cosmetics and pharmaceuticals.
On the creative side, bacterial dyeing is being integrated into design practices as seen with Charlotte Werth, a resident at Maison/O (LVMH’s regenerative luxury platform at Central Saint Martins), with her “Automated Violacin” automated dyeing and printing machine that points to the future of co-designed dye processes. Similarly, Normal Phenomena of Life (NPOL), a collaboration between Faber Futures and Ginkgo Bioworks, creates unique garments with patterns formed by bacterial dyes or algae-based inks. Yet, consistency in pigment quality and challenges in maintaining color fastness remain significant hurdles for these methods. Danish company Octarine Bio has developed a precision fermentation process called OB-CLR™, which creates vibrant natural dyes in shades of purple, blue, and green. These pigments are compatible with both natural and synthetic fibres, providing excellent colour strength and fastness.
Recycled dyes: closing the loop by turning waste into pigments
“Recycled dyes can be generated in two ways. Firstly, by transforming textile waste into a finely crystallised powder and utilising it for dyeing purposes. Alternatively, dyes can be chemically recovered from pre- or post-consumer waste and then used to redye different fabrics. Employing textile waste as a feedstock not only decreases the reliance on synthetic chemistry but also enables a more circular process, promoting sustainability and reducing waste.”
Fashion for Good Textile Processing Guide
Recycled dyes represent another interesting option for sustainable colouration, reducing reliance and pressure on virgin raw materials, by repurposing textile waste, which constitutes a huge feedstock indeed. Innovations like Recycrom by Officina+39 transform discarded garments into a very finely shredded powder that serves as a suspension-based dye, requiring no further use of chemicals. Similarly, Archroma’s Fibercolors® converts pre- and post-consumer textile waste into dyes for cellulose-based fibres such as cotton and viscose. Comprising 50% recycled content, heir Diresul® range includes shades of brown, burgundy, green ochre, and grey.
Established as a historical know-how in Prato, and done since centuries, wool recycling is taken a step further thanks to Manteco with their Recype® process: by re-spinning recycled post-consumer colored woolen textile waste into new colored yarns, totally eliminating the need for additional dyes. This technique exemplifies circularity in action, creating entirely new color palettes.
Some companies tackle the extraction of existing colors. DyeRecycle extracts dyes from waste fibres and applies them to new textiles, without creating new pigments. In a different vein, Vividye’s technology allows for the removal and reapplication of their modified pigments on garments (but also cosmetics, paints, adhesives and pharmaceutical), minimising the release of harmful particles into the water supply and extending the lifecycle of products, enabling them to be reinvented several times.
Carbon capture: Turning pollution into color
Taking an entirely different approach, some innovators have started using carbon emissions as a resource for producing pigments (and textiles too, a word on that in a later article). This strategy transforms pollution from industries into value-added products, simultaneously addressing GHG emissions and creating alternative colorants.
While a critical mind can point out that relying on industrial emissions risks perpetuating dependence on polluting industries, potentially undermining broader sustainability goals, it is nevertheless an interesting option to consider, and some companies like Post Carbon Lab use these photosynthesis processes in their coatings all along the garment’s lifecycle: indeed, their green-hued textiles actively sequester carbon throughout their life, contributing to carbon reduction even during use. Another example is Graviky Labs, that have created AIR-INK®, a black pigment that is compatible with existing production lines and printing methods, including screen and digital printing. Graviky has tested AIR-INK on textiles and other materials, and applications for dope dyeing are under development.
Bridging technologies to make these solutions truly actionable in the industry
Despite their differences in process, these innovations share common challenges: cost, scalability, and integration into existing systems, but also meeting the standards of color uniformity and replicability as the fashion industry is used to. Many microbial and recycled dyeing methods require specialised equipment or feedstocks, which can be expensive and limit accessibility for smaller manufacturers. Additionally, the textile industry’s reliance on economies of scale means that any new process must match the efficiency and affordability of conventional methods to gain traction. Consumer but also designer perception is another critical factor. While microbial pigments and recycled dyes align with sustainability goals, they often face scepticism about their durability and quality. Similarly, the reliance on GMOs or advanced nanotechnology could deter adoption if safety and ecological concerns are not adequately addressed.
Finally, the supply chain implications of these innovations cannot be ignored. Whether it’s the sourcing of agricultural feedstocks for fermentation or the collection and sorting of textile waste for recycling, these processes require new infrastructure, collaboration and skills across industries. Without systemic changes, the full potential of these technologies may remain unrealised. This is not to say that the R&D in these fields should not be pursued, quite the opposite! But it is one solution among many. There is not one unique perfect solution fitting all. As a brand and as a designer, one has to clearly set the priorities, establish different routes and strategies, and deeply study all of them, to finally decide for one. Go step by step, towards a clear goal, not targeting all the improvements at once, yet ensuring to embark the whole teams with you.
The textile industry’s shift toward sustainable dyeing represents a vital step in reducing its environmental impact. Natural, mineral and microbial pigments are promising alternatives to petrochemical dyes, and those relying on waste have an even lower impact as they do not use any virgin ressources.
Yes, these sometimes still pilot projects and niche developments can find ways to integrate into mainstream production without compromising efficiency or affordability. But this requires ongoing investment, cross-sector collaboration, and transparent life cycle assessments to ensure that their environmental benefits outweigh their costs. And AI can play an interesting role for reducing the environmental impact and waste in these processes. First, by the prediction of maintenance needs, preventing unscheduled downtime and material loss due to equipment failures or malfunctions, and secondly by the optimisation of the formulas, as well that of water and chemical use. AI-powered dyeing systems can use precise algorithms to calculate the exact amount of water, dye, and chemicals needed based on the fabric type, reducing water and chemical waste and reducing discarded batches due to dyeing errors.
While the road ahead is complex and long, the creative and scientific breakthroughs in sustainable dyeing hold a huge potential. By addressing the challenges head-on, the industry has the opportunity to embrace not only new technologies but also a more virtuous and equitable model for bringing color to life!