Maison d’Exceptions: Step into the world of ultra-creativity The 3 January 2024 - Maison d'Exceptions - Première Vision Paris

Anne Gelbard

In 1997, Anne Gelbard, a graduate of the École Nationale Supérieure des Arts Décoratifs, set up a most unusual workshop. A true research and development laboratory where everything is conducive to creativity.

Anne Gelbard pushes the idea of the creator to its limit. The airbrush meets the delicacy of the hand-painted. The pigments overlap, fade into one another. Sheen and matte harmonise. The rarefied application techniques of gold, silver or copper leaf transform the base cloth. Anne Gelbard catches, absorbs every desire and transforms the materials under her hands. Mixing materials, technology and media, this innovative workshop brings a new way of seeing to the world of haute couture, luxury ready-to-wear collections and interior styling. 

Artisanal methods of finishing
PARIS – France

Atelier Richard de Latour – Maïques

Hand painting, screen printing, needle tufting, cut-outs, embroidery, lamination… in his workshop, Richard de Latour and his collaborator Claire Maïques develop and reinvent new techniques for embellishing textiles through the juxtaposition of different methods. 

To offer fresh inspirations and unique materials to the haute couture, ready-to-wear and interiors sectors, they experiment with a multitude of combinations, conjugating a palette of different appearances and textures in order to embellish textiles and leather. 

Artisanal methods of finishing
SAINT MARTIN DE RÉ – France

Cécile Feilchenfeldt Knitwear studio Paris

The expertise of Cécile Feilchenfeldt lies primarily in combining traditional knit techniques with new fibers to create unexpected and sometimes even playful effects.

With a background in costume and set design—most notably at the Comédie Française in Paris and the Zurich Opera—her expressiveness is funnelled through a heightened attention to volume proportions, and to the motion created by fabric. Above all she believes in letting the yarn express itself, and her work then feeds on shifts and variations brought about by analysis and chance observations. 

Semi-mechanical knitting
PARIS – France

Cécile Gray

Since 2017, Cécile Gray has been developing a unique technique of metal meshwork, honing her own artisanal expertise at the intersection of weaving, embroidery, and jewelry. This exceptional material, with its myriad variations, is the result of the meticulous manual setting of thousands of golden beads. While retaining the structural approach and voluminous style from her background in architecture, Cécile Gray infuses her work with the sensitivity and poetry of handcraft. Winner of the International Festival of Hyères (Audience Award – Accessory category) and the Elle-LVMH Craftswomen’s Award in 2022, she now collaborates with prestigious houses such as Hermès, Ruinart, and Piaget. 

Metal meshwork
PARIS – France

Modi Embroidery

Modi Embroidery House is an esteemed needle-craft atelier situated in Bangalore, India. With a deep-rooted understanding of fashion and design garnered over two decades, their devoted team of artisans are highly experienced and honed in luxury fashion creation. In the dynamic realm of couture, they present a wide array of meticulously crafted finished and semi-finished garments, accessories, and home furnishings. Each piece showcases intricate embroidery, employing the utmost precision, finest materials, and innovative designs.

As they breathe new life and modernity into the ancient, timeless techniques of hand embroidery through constant design research and development, their aesthetic offers a glimpse into the glorious past.

Hand embroidery
BANGALORE – India

P+L Studio

Heir to the traditional craftsmanship of needle and Lunéville hook embroidery, P+L Studio was founded in 2014 with the aim of extending the fields and scales of application of these know-how, by enriching them with the techniques of textile high relief and painting.

Specialised in the creation of ‘multi-form’ finishes on soft materials, first and foremost fabrics and leathers, its founder Cyrielle Leclère explores the ornamental tradition of fresco and bas-relief in order to offer narrative and haptic materials to be handled and applied to surfaces and objects. Working mainly for luxury brands and the interior design sector, the studio has built up a solid reputation for designing and producing outstanding, highly challenging projects. 

Hand embroidery + artisanal methods of finishing 
PARIS – France

Sericyne

After several years of research, Sericyne finally saw the light of day in 2015 thanks to Clara Hardy and Constance Madaule, a textile designer and agronomic engineer, respectively. 

Combining science with creation, the two women developed a method to work with silk that does not spin thread from cocoon fibers but, similar to 3D printing, uses fine layers of silk to directly construct an infinite variety of forms and volumes. 

Non-woven silk 
PARIS – France

Stel Ornements

Since 1995, Bibis Castañer, in her creative laboratory Stel Ornements, has been developing and reinventing a know-how passed down through her family where resin is king. In her workshop, the designer experiments with an endless variety of combinations of wild silk, lace, flowers, eco-glitter, leaves and gilding, mixing colors, sizes, materials, textures and light to create infinitely poetic buttons and ornaments for some of the world’s leading haute couture and luxury fashion houses.

At the crossroads of creativity, technology and sustainability, Castañer’s unique, patented approach is rooted in safeguarding and promoting techniques and local suppliers with an ethical, eco-responsible approach. 

Costume jewellery
BARCELONA – Spain

Studio 1886

Alliance group created Studio1886 to meet the expectations of the major fashion houses. A unique space nurtured by a network of partners and experienced workshops, Studio 1886 is capable of taking projects from a creative sketch to production.

Driven by a desire to constantly adapt to changes in the market, the workshops are trained in a wide range of finishing techniques, including Lunéville crochet embroidery, needlework, textile manipulation, Cornély and the creation of hand-made trimmings. Their network of qualified partners completes their capacity and their diversity of production tools. These carefully selected workshops enable them to offer production volumes and other technical solutions tailored to their customers needs, both within Europe and outside the EU. 

Hand embroidery + artisanal methods of finishing 
PARIS – France

Superlativa – Berbrand

The Superlativa® company’s journey continues in the production and experimentation of Ecocrest-certified extra luxury mother-of-pearl fabrics. Whether it is precious inserts to be combined with exotic leathers for bags, footwear, wallets, watch straps, or automotive interiors, Superlativa® Leather can bestow each item with a unique brilliance, iridescence, and depth, all of which are natural characteristics of pearls.

With an entirely eco-sustainable supply chain, with zero waste and a negative carbon footprint, the company—already certified Ecocrest, a brand of the Fondazione Acquario di Genova—obtained the Gold level this year that certifies that aquatic materials only come from environmentally sustainable and ethically correct supply chains and reinvests the royalties from members to finance a variety of projects to protect marine resources. 

Mother-of-pearl plating
GRUMELLO DEL MONTE – Italy

Xavier Brisoux

A specialist in knitted fabrics, Xavier Brisoux transcends traditional techniques and creates knitted volumes that appear to have been inspired by draping, pleating or smocking. His mastery of knitting produces items of extreme density and he focuses on garment volumes, row after row and stitch after stitch, with yarns becoming veritable sculptures, thus highlighting the duality of textiles, the dichotomy between fragility and strength. 

Semi-mechanical knitting 
LILLE – France

Yugen

The first motivation is was to make a material that was “environmentally friendly, lightweight, and durable and could also be used in bags”. And Yugen came up with the idea of using the traditional Japanese paper manufacturing method. The challenge was to provide strength, volume, and soft texture. Towards this end, they began researching the structure and composition of paper and were able to discover the optimal raw materials and blending ratio. Simply put, the greatest know-how of this product lies in its ability to intentionally adjust the structure of the paper. Furthermore, they take advantage of paper’s inherent dyeability and add vegetable dyeing, lacquer processing, and foil processing. 

New material maker 
Osaka – Japan

7Weaves Social

Located in the Assam region of north-east India, 7Weaves produces weavings from Eri silk, an entirely handmade fibre typical of the region. The colours come from natural dyes made with endemic plant species. 

The company was created in 2017 with the aim of using its activity to support the indigenous communities of the Loharghat forest and preserve both their artisanal know-how and local biodiversity. These social and environmental goals are cleverly combined with an aesthetic approach focused on elegance and authenticity. 

Hand weaving
GUWAHATI – India

Atelier Seiran

Atelier Seiran was founded in 1971 in Tokushima, Japan, by dye artist Yoko Hashimoto, who set out to revive the ancient art of Japanese indigo dyeing. Faced with the demise of traditional indigo dyeing after the Second World War due to the boom in chemical dyes, the workshop developed a new technique known as wax-resist dyeing. This method, which produces magnificent shades of indigo, was used by Yoko Hashimoto and her students over the following decades to create exceptional works of art and textile creations (kimonos, clothing, accessories, etc.) of the highest quality. 

Today, the Atelier Seiran continues to promote the indigo dyeing culture by developing sales channels for its designs and textile creations. 

Hand dyeing
TOKUSHIMA – Japan

Kasagi Fiber Studio

Since 2018, Kasagi Fiber Studio has been grazing its own sheep on a small family farm and has created a local processing circuit to fabricate high-quality wool products. 

Typically, wool quality is determined by the fineness of the fibers, but Kasagi Fiber Studio has developed a method of producing apparel fabrics infused with the wool’s original texture, warmth and elasticity. This specialised know-how makes it possible to transform previously unused wool resources into superior-quality products. 

Wool production, spinning and weaving
OHDA – Japan

Kashida Studio

Established with an unwavering commitment to preserving the timeless Kalamkari technique, Kashida Studio stands as a beacon of reverence for an ancient art form originating from the cultural tapestry of South India. Their dedication is rooted in seamlessly combining the finesse of freehand painting with the intricacy of delicate hand embroidery, all woven together with natural yarns and pure gold threads.

It’s a delicate dance between preserving the authenticity of centuries-old craftsmanship and embracing the possibilities of contemporary artistry. Behind the scenes, the team comprises over 600 skilled craftsmen and designers, each a guardian of the heritage they hold dear. At Kashida Studio, each creation narrates a story of cultural richness and artistic finesse. 

Hand embroidery
JAIPUR – India

Kossu

Kesi (Kossu), also known as “carved silk”, stands proudly as a revered World Intangible Cultural Heritage. With its origins tracing back over 2000 years ago, Kesi made its way into China from the West Asia through the legendary Silk Road. It now stands as the sole weaving technique globally that eludes mechanized replication.

Characterized by continuous-warp, discontinuous wefts; double-sided weaving, and creation-from-nothingness, the craft of Kesi has been a beacon of handcraft tradition. Commencing from the year 2010, Kossu embarked on a journey of bold innovation, seamlessly blending contemporary craftsmanship with the ancient legacy. Crafted exclusively by Suzhou’s master artisans, the intricate workmanship of Kesi involves more than 16 weaving processes.

Hand weaving
SUZHOU – China

Omi Jofu

Omi Jofu is a high-quality hemp and ramie fabrics, handwoven in the Koto region of Shiga, east of Lake Biwa, the largest lake in Japan, where the high humidity and abundance of clean water led to the development of hemp and ramie fabric in this region. The traditional techniques and methods of Omi Jofu include Kibira (making thread by hand), Kasuri (pattern printing and comb printing), washing the linen cloth by rubbing and water twisting processes. 

Hand weaving
SHIGA – Japan