S/S22 Decoding by universe: Leather apparel The 22 February 2021 - Leather - Première Vision Paris

Leathers are confident in their roundness which chimes with the desire for a certain scale and ample volume in ready-to-wear items this season.

Lamb leathers from metal-free tanning are softer and bring a casual touch to smart garments. Tailored items are worn extra-loose. Perfectly smooth and shiny, trousers take wideness to extremes and jackets with slight provocative deep lapels or shawl collars adopt longer lines under the influence of sophisticated nonchalance.

The season also embraces shapes with an exacerbated femininity and enthusiastically adopts fluid, flowing leathers: draped mini-skirts or asymmetric dresses with exaggerated details at the shoulders or the waist, or shirt-dresses with a heavy drape that accompanies the movement and indolently wraps around the wearer’s curves.

Nubucks and suedes are richly nourished and reveal a buttery, creamy appearance. Their malleability, coupled with a spongy, featherlight smoothness, is ideal for garments with a sweat shirt style, short and generously cut, with or without a hood, and offers elegance to items typically inspired by leisure. Oversized overshirts with gusset pockets are paired with fitted trousers or short skirts to offer a very chic no-gender silhouette.

Vegetable-tanned lamb and goat leathers innovate by giving the skins great elasticity. Their fineness evokes the appearance of a second skin which, more than ever, echoes our desire for comfort in our daily lives without renouncing seduction.

To be worn indoors or outdoors, very close-fitting, featherweight dresses free the body of all restrictions. Suede calf leather with extra-flexible behaviour maintains a reassuring velvety texture and can be imagined on belted trenches that bring to mind refined kimono housecoats.

Tops place the accent on shoulders while bottoms have low waists that subtly reveal the belly. These garments are worn like a caress against the skin to seduce women with character who are seeking a new concept of luxury, midway between indulgent comfort and high standards.

Leathers are also surprising this season for their consistent lightness and their papery textures with a subtle crackle that may even evoke more technical fabrics: a behaviour that is ideal for the feminised athleisure items of next Spring/Summer. Loose Bermudas and leather jogging pants are enhanced with gathered details around hems and waistbands and offer a new interpretation of the sport chic influence.

Playing on the sensorial ambivalence, between textures and visuals, leather is adapting to the desires of a S/S 22 season that promotes a very attractive sensual comfort.