S/S22 Decoding by universe – Outer layers: jackets and coordinates The 22 February 2021 - Fabrics - Première Vision Paris

A linen-y spirit slips into suitings. Windowpane checks, semi-plains and micro yarn-dyeds are enlivened with plant irregularities. Pure linens and wool-linen or cotton-linen blends borrow the visual codes of woolens, for slightly authentic citywear, featuring jackets and suits of a less formal elegance.

In womenswear, plant fibers slip into materials that are a hybrid of silkies and tailoring.  Handles are softer and rounder thanks to blends of viscose or synthetic filaments with natural fibers, linens, ramies or hemps.

Slightly slubbed yarns enrich plains with subtle surface irregularities. Materials generate relaxed yet refined looks, happily suggesting both chicly-cut jackets and ensembles, and full suits with assertive, genderless lines.

Men’s checks bet on cheerful, sunny colorways, paving the way to an assured originality. The forthright, sometimes grating color harmonies of classic patterns – Prince of Wales, plaids, windowpanes – give off an invigorating, playful energy, for jackets freed of conformity. This visual boldness is a vote for unmatched silhouettes – uncoordinated jackets and pants – to combine depending on the day’s mood.

Women’s summer tweeds venture into vitamin-boosted colors, and showcase a spruce fantasy. Fabrics opt for a certain extravagance, with blends of ribbon, bouclé and fringed yarns, infusing gaiety and optimism into the very heart of the season. These are easily imagined on jackets and ensembles with fitted proportions. Fabric that are an invitation to design women’s suits with a demystified rigor, with ensembles with shortened lengths and boxy little jackets.

Both tactile and visual, fantasy is expressed in the sensory diversity of textures. Intentionally plain, suitings are enhanced with expanded textures. For both men and women, wools in synthetic and elastane blends feature puffy surfaces with graphic accents: cloqués and honeycombs with an origami influence, easily imagined on garments with a pared-down design.