S/S22 MANUFACTURING: Decoding and know-how The - Manufacturing - Première Vision Paris
For the Spring Summer 2022 season, Première Vision’s manufacturer present know-how for all sectors and markets. From children to women and tailoring, they have developed techniques that combine fashion and solidity, refined details and sophisticated pattern.
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Summer smocks
Smocks, whether for women or children, bring a Bohemian style to items and illustrate a truly summery romanticism. Smocking decorates collars and cuffs. Minutely embroidered with floral patterns for a bucolic effect or with diamond shapes for a graphic style, they accentuate a quest for sophistication in details. This elasticated technique allows the creation of generous volumes in shirts and dresses. Smocks delicately accentuate the waist and play with materials to create pleats. In all-over on the torso, they encourage the design of comfortable bodices to create wasp waists. At the wrists of sleeves, they accentuate the bouffant volumes to create a flounced effect. Printed or decorated items are cut out in a shirting style. A technique which goes beyond woven fabrics and is become more prevalent on the season’s jerseys.
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Sportswear
Summer sports developments play with the dynamism of contrasts between colors and materials. Cut and sewn items explore combinations of technical fabrics and high-performance jersey, with inserts in jogging pants and the linings of sweatshirt hoods. Cut-outs are multiplied to meet the need for flexibility in movement. Details are accompanied by sophisticated finishes and designed to offer enhanced performance: pocket openings are discretely inserted into seams, or reinforced with heat-bonded zips to avoid tears. Hood cords are fully stitched and the edges are reinforced with elastic ribbons.
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Knitwear
Summer flat-bed knits are worked with lighter yarns, bringing a relaxed aspect to cardigans and tops. Even in plain colors, items are sophisticated with regauged cut-outs giving an airy perforated effect. Knitwear makers embrace fashion finishes on cardigans, round necks and even vest tops. The use of linen, cotton and marl yarns bring natural freshness to knitted fabrics. Small, placed openwork details draw new lines around the armholes, to create the illusion of cut-outs in the constructions. Herringbones and diamond patterns are knitted on all over cardigans to give a light, relaxed effect. More randomly, inventive ribs create new textures for tight-fitting garments worn directly against the skin. Graphic bead inserts in knits offer a structured contrast effect.
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Cut and sewn
In cut and sewn, shapes are inspired by details and blurred cut-outs to play with volumes and renew the classic tee-shirt patterns. Graphic cut-outs with pleats in the sleeves add a feminine touch to fleece sweatshirts. The use of accessories gives character to items. They can be discretely added though the detail of appliqué ribbons, or in a fashion spirit with deliberately visible eyelets and cord insert holes. By mastering the cut and sewn technique the possibilities go far beyond simple basics. Volumes are used to create placed amplifications, where cut-outs become bows or elastic gathers form leg-of-mutton sleeves, giving tops the look of women’s blouses. These techniques apply to fresh, lightweight summer jerseys that can be plain, chiné or patterned, and are associated with the season’s fashion accessories.
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Tailoring
Formal wear is adopting a relaxed summer style. In shirting, the collars can be embroidered, and Mao collars are matched with suits for a more relaxed style. Part-lined jackets are worked in muted shades and light qualities. Sleeves are Neapolitan to follow the natural line of the wearer and stay soft, for menswear and for womenswear. In suits, trouser waistbands have added elastic to respond to a growing demand for more comfort in a city-chic spirit. For separates, the season’s blazers are slim fitting and double-breasted with elegant, well-proportioned collars. A chic garment to combine with more casual items such as chinos and denim for looks ranging from dressy to less formal.
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Outerwear
The influence of workwear on outerwear in recent seasons takes its inspiration from the codes of uniforms. These working garments are carefully designed to meet technical criteria. The high-performance features are found in items with reinforced stitching and utilitarian yokes. Particular attention is paid to the details of pockets, for more functionality: gussets, press-fasteners, zipped or with velcro. They are produced in contrasting colored stitches, to showcase their structured lines. For greater comfort, the interiors are lined with shearling-style linings. In a quest for solidity, cotton gabardines are ideal for these garments. They can also be developed in garment dyed.