Accessoires Know-How: Eco-responsible solutions The 21 June 2021 - Accessories - Première Vision Paris

The starting point for producing eco-designed accessories is the material, and this is one of the first areas of development addressed in order to meet eco-responsibility criteria.

According to the desired end product, a number of types of materials can be used.

The “organic eco-material” performance code signifies that the product is made up of more than 50% organic natural materials, such as cotton, wool, linen and silk, and this considerably broadens the possibilities in terms of creativity. This ribbon from Lissoni combines GOTS certified cotton with viscose. At Ribbontex, this ribbon is a blend of cotton and hemp with GOTS and Oeko Tex certification and is embellished with tone-on-tone geometric designs. The Nilorn label shows an attractive natural finish thanks to this organic cotton with a pronounced grain. The use of organic material is not limited to textile accessories but are also used for the production of buttons thanks to blends of cotton fiber composites.

To meet the “recycled eco-material” criteria, the material must contain at least 30% recycled material, whether natural or synthetic.

It is now possible to use recycled materials for all types of accessories.

Functional accessories – buckles, buttons and zips – can be made up of recycled materials such as brass or polyester for plastic aspects. According to the desired appearance and design, labels, can offer a natural finish with cork, or a more graphic, simple look, such as this paper and colored PVC example from Rebil. Packaging for clothing from Legoplast is entirely made from recycled polyester and is easily reusable.

The “biosourced eco-polymer” performance code refers to materials containing at least 30% renewable bio-sourced resources, such as sugar, corn or ricin. These biopolymers offer an alternative to fossil fuel resources and can replace synthetic plastic resins. They can be used to produce a wide range of fashion items. A number of finishes are available, including transparencies with alternating resin and opaque appearances to imitate tortoiseshell and Bakelite.

Chains from Valter combine biopolymers, minerals and natural colorants and also have the specific feature of being harmlessly biodegradable in the environment.

This stopper from Duraflex and the buckles from Utax offer a matt finish that recalls the minerality of pumice stone. A finish that is also found on the labels from Varcotex which stand out for their high degree of resistance. The label from Panama, which is partially made from biopolymers, suggests an authentic leather appearance.

Labels from Label&Things combine a blend of polyester and an eco-biopolymer produced from apple waste which is reduced to a powder then amalgamated. This represents another virtuous initiative in the production of this label.

The “eco-finish with a reduced chemical impact” performance code refers to treatments, dyes, prints and finishes that ensure a reduction in the use of chemical products and guarantee their harmlessness for people and the environment.

For metallic accessories – brass, zamak – a steam galvanization technique increases resistance while reducing impacts. By covering it with zinc, the galvanization process protects the metallic item from corrosion. A number of techniques are used on metallic accessories with very different results: shiny golden or aged brass or copper finishes, for example.

Galvanization can be achieved in a closed circuit thanks to procedures that allow the reuse of water and the metals involved in the electrolysis.

On other types of accessories – buttons, textiles – the reduced chemical impact can be seen at different stages, including printing techniques, dyes or solvent-free finishes.

REACH accreditation can combine with this performance code for all types of accessories. This accreditation relates to European legislation on chemical products and means Registration and Authorization of Chemicals. It entered into force in 2007, and its aim is to ensure a high level of protection of human health and the environment and to inform consumers about the chemical substances potentially used in products.

The “eco-biodegradable or compostable” performance code is used for materials that are biodegradable or compostable at the end of their life, when they are placed in specific environments and conditions.

To achieve these performances, a number of avenues are possible. The textiles in natural materials and bioplastics mentioned above are good examples. They can also include hard natural components such as wood and corozo, also known as vegetal ivory, which are useful alternatives for buttons and are available in natural or colored versions.