Special report : Tuning in to the new fashion desires…Vanessa Seward The - Première Vision Paris
Vanessa Seward “For inspiration, women are looking beyond street style to Insta-style”
Seward, a Franco-Argentinean designer, has worked for Chanel, Saint-Laurent and Azzaro, signed collabs with A.P.C. and now La Redoute, and founded her own fashion house. Her sensitive, elegant clothing universe reflects her deep understanding of what women want. Here, the designer breaks it down for us, and shares invaluable insights for how to imagine the future.
How do you think consumer behavior is evolving?
The younger generation is deeply concerned by the ecological aspect of fashion and, more globally, by a company’s set of values and its story telling. Today, a brand encompasses all that, which transforms the way we look at it. Twenty years ago, models were the stars, and then it was the designers’ turn. Today, the fashion houses are the stars – provided they find the right way to express their philosophy, which they can do through social media. These sites also enable a spontaneous dialogue with customers and give designers the chance to accurately address their expectations, with collections that are constantly evolving. Some designers go even further, even surveying consumers before launching production. It’s an interesting approach, but I see its limitations, and I think the public will see them too.
What are the limitations?
I think the designer’s role is to have a highly developed sensibility in terms of women and the times, but he has to be free from them too. He has to challenge what is already out there – to surprise, to propose the unexpected, to be a step ahead of what women want. As St. Laurent said, “We have to give women what they don’t yet know they’re going to want.” This requires intuition, daring, and talent. But it’s the very definition of fashion – its entire reason for being.
The wardrobe you yourself design is quite personal. How would you define it?
The way I look at fashion is very spontaneous, instinctive and connected to the moment. Right now I see women expressing a huge desire for comfort, which has been further exacerbated by the lock down. You just have to walk down the street to see that 90% of them are wearing sneakers! What I’m passionate about is trying to offer a wardrobe that combines that desire with a sense of style. I think women today are looking for an alternative to purely comfortable clothing, for clothes that instill a certain elegance.
The wardrobe you yourself design is quite personal. How would you define it?
The way I look at fashion is very spontaneous, instinctive and connected to the moment. Right now I see women expressing a huge desire for comfort, which has been further exacerbated by the lock down. You just have to walk down the street to see that 90% of them are wearing sneakers! What I’m passionate about is trying to offer a wardrobe that combines that desire with a sense of style. I think women today are looking for an alternative to purely comfortable clothing, for clothes that instill a certain elegance.
What’s your analysis of this emancipation?
It represents a desire for independence, which is easier to express thanks to Instagram, which is an extraordinary source of inspiration. Its scope is so wide that it gives you total freedom. In the 1990’s/2000’s, the street was the primary source of inspiration, now it’s social media. Street style has given way to Insta style!
You decided to collaborate with La Redoute. Why?
I had already done a collab with the company when I was at Azarro, and I had some very fond memories of it. I really like the spirit of the group. The teams know fashion extremely well, respect the work of the designers and give them a lot of freedom. For this fourth edition, which is available in early March, I created a cohesive collection of only 20 pieces. Accessories, comfortable and well-cut basics, in a palette of blues: jumpsuit, dress, shorts, skirt…. I also worked with the visual artist Jason Glasser, who designed prints we used on quite beautiful blouses – unique pieces that give a signature to a wardrobe and are made to last. My friends often tell me that when they decide to go through their wardrobe, they always keep things from my brand. I’m very proud of that!
What are your future projects?
I’ve decided to put my house on hold for the moment and I’m concentrating on writing a book, which will be published by Editions Lattes next fall. It’s not a fashion story, it’s a story about women’s desire. About the whole idea of elegance that’s compatible with real life.
Our special report on new buying behaviors in fashion continues:
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