Spring-Summer 23 Colours: Zero White The 21 April 2022 - Colors - Fabrics - Leather

Nostalgic but not simplistic, tulle and lace fully unleash their sensory appeal. They are delicate and evanescent, light and airy. Their patterns flourish in complexity and sophisticate virginal whites. Embellished with metallic or transparent yarns, they bring out subtly shimmering surface effects, like delicate snowflake crystals.

Embroideries feature slightly old-fashioned handiwork, marked by folk influences. A finely hand-worked spirit dipping into guipure, crochet-like cross-stitches, and antique doilies call up a period trousseau. Imagined in pure white, these airy voiles are decorated with rural botanical embellishments, dotted with raised butterflies and other flowers.

White infuses an air of freshness into the season’s cotton batistes and voiles. Light as can be, they verge on transparent, and are enhanced by tiny surface tremors. Crêpons, seersuckers and cotton gauzes unfurl in a host of white nuances, like clean, sun-dried laundry. White adds a touch of modern purity to stripes drawn in dotted lines, minimalist openwork and woven pleats.

There’s a spring-like air, and a nod to fine workmanship that pays full homage to fine handwork.

Spring-summer 23 puts texture front and centre in textiles. Plant materials permeate fabrics and enhance the rusticity of cotton-linen or hemp blends. Fibres reveal their more or less visible textures, and infuse collections with a countrified air. Undyed cottons and linens are preferred, and suitings come to life in colourful harmonies that are also quite natural. This fresh natural quality, ramped up by pale colours, ranges from optical white to a straw-like white. Cotton fabrics with the look of impeccable, well-ironed linens feature fine but visible grains, distinctively displaying their raw aspects. They’ll find their place next season in sophisticated casual and casual city styles.

Continuing in a sporty register, performance turns away from a purely graphic, technical universe. It’s softened and brought to life by drawing inspiration from tactile surfaces. Whiteness – which can be more or less intense – is enriched by delicate weave textures, traditionally seen in casual or city wear, or tone-on-tone geometric decorations. Cotton-look surfaces are enhanced by crumpled and matt aspects, with the soft rustle of crunchy paper.

This season, tanners also took particular care in working the surfaces of skins. Inspired by organic materials and their more or less irregular grains, skins assert strong personalities. Dry handles have a raspy feel, like passing your hand over fine and not-so-fine fine grains of sand. Plays on cracklings evoke arid and porous white clays, and more or less shaggy fringes recall the hides of wild arctic animals.