SS 26 Decodings: Fabrics The - Spring-Summer 26 - Fabrics - Première Vision Paris
In an era calling for the highest level of technicity in everyday life, with fashion craving its share of dreams and desire, and eco-responsibility having become a universal imperative, it is time to refresh our processes and developments. Linen is finding its way into evening gowns, wool and silk stepping into casualwear. Fashion is entering a period of transition and, now more than ever, know-how is essential—not to replicate the past, rather to invent a bright and sustainable future. A tribute, then, to this know-how whose greatest strength will be agility. From fibre producers to designers, from artisans to industrial manufacturers, every sector of fashion is called upon to make this transition successful towards sustainable models. There is no doubt they have everything they need, since fashion is an art of change by nature.
Tailoring & Tweed
Summer Wools & Linen-y Suitings
With a distinctly summery mood from the start of the season, suiting fabrics are exploring every combination between pure wool and 100% linen, offering textures that range from crisp and lively to dry and structured. Delicate slubbed effects highlight their natural elegance, bringing a modern, relaxed sophistication.
Faux solids, herringbones, and micro-patterned structures showcase the precision of well-twisted yarns in relaxed weaves that allow air to circulate freely.
Airy Structures
Loose gauzes and open weaves lighten the fabric constructions, creating breezy tweeds which see the everyday simplicity of cotton, denim, and natural linen blends enhanced by paper yarns, metallic threads, and airy finishes, shimmering with the frosty glow of chilled cocktails.
Shirting
Woollen Shirtings
Finely refined wool is blended with cotton to redefine shirting. Airy voiles, gauzy worsteds, and delicate crêpes compose flowing, climate-adaptive, and wrinkle-resistant shirts with draped elegance.
Linen-y Paleness
Worn by the wind, sun-faded, and dried in the open air, linen is embracing a rustic simplicity, adorned with workwear-inspired stripes or handkerchief checks, subtly enhanced by charming textured details.
High-energy Graphics
Glazed percales, premium two-ply cottons, and fine poplins offer perfectly smooth, calendered surfaces, energised by vibrant, zesty, and rhythmically spaced stripes, bringing a pop-infused sharpness to clean-cut silhouettes.
Casual
Pure Cotton
Casualwear is becoming more sophisticated and functional. With their dense, precise weaves and smooth, structured surfaces, gabardines, canvases, and heavy cottons are looking to the purity of cotton craftsmanship and the expertise of shirting.
Rustic Freshness
Denims are also venturing into wool or silk blends, exploring new weights and treatments that transform their hand feel—sometimes supple and rounded, sometimes fluid and silky, sometimes thick and woolly, or lightened and mercerised.
Colored Garment Wash
Meanwhile, linen blends are lending their robust rusticity to slubbed, irregular, and unprocessed fabrics. Garment washes bring colours joyfully alive, while weave patterns and coatings unveil their rich nuances through the fading process.
Sport & outdoor
Performance remains at the core, but the challenge lies in infusing it with a stylish edge, through playful colours or a carefree, crinkled look. Electric brights hide beneath refined beiges, shirting checks, and urban neutrals in double-faced, membrane-backed constructions.
Shirting-weight fabrics are enhanced by windproof properties with functional blends, surprising with crisp, rustling textures and emerised surfaces that combine a subtle sheen with a soft, velvety touch.
Meanwhile, fine-gauge, quick-dry and ultra-breathable knits weave between natural slubbed effects and high-tech piqués, with merino wool reigning supreme in the blend compositions.
Lingerie
Sculpted drape
Infinitely soft, elastic and enveloping, double knits and dense and thick charmeuses blend seamlessly with the skin for shapewear offering firm and supple comfort. Satin knits, angel skins, and microfibres compete for the ultimate softness, while cloqué or crinkled textures, burnouts, and plumetis add vibrancy to the usual lingerie materials.
Graphic Shadows
Playing with transparency, the choice alternates between ultra-light, almost imperceptible, micro-meshes and the graphic precision of marquisettes, striped tulles, intricate powernets, and finely openworked or embroidered mesh veils, all creating striking shadow effects.
Mailles
Silky Knits
This season’s knits are a marvel of thermoregulating engineering, whether sleek, icy, and elegantly fine—sometimes enhanced with structured ribbed trims for added elegance—or rustic and irregular with naturally heathered slubbed effects.
Openwork Structures
Precisely designed airy openworks, textured surfaces, piqué effects, and well-defined ribs optimise ventilation, airflow, and breathability.
Linen-y Knits
Dry and healthy linen, fresh and lightweight silk, and climate-adaptive wool all combine their properties with mercerised and ultra-fine cottons.
Soieries
Linen Gleam
For special evenings or everyday wear, silks continue to surprise us (and that’s what we love!) with their masterful blends. Interwoven linen disrupts majestic satins, introducing crisp drapes that defy expectations. Everyday twills and gabardines take on fleeting sheens, where silk and lyocell compete for softness and subtle lustre.
Stretch Silkies
Irresistible silk-elastane blends effortlessly adapt to all kinds of form and movement. In the meantime, naturally stretchy crepes in recycled polyester make a strong case for 100% virtuous mono-materials.
Discover more SS 26 season decodings here.
