Style Focus AW 23-24: The New Expressions of Lace The 10 September 2022 - Women's fashion - Embroidery and lace - Fabrics - Leather - Accessories

Designs move away from florals, lines stretch vertically, and friezes, overlapping patterns and ornamental stripes take inspiration from antique and Art Deco motifs.

At times, threads come with Lurex or metallic coatings for an extra shot of brightness, or incorporate thicker, guipure-like threads that bring out interlocking reliefs, or 3D patterns.

Spaghetti strap tops and asymmetrical tank tops are reinterpreted in openwork lace, playing up transparency and peek-a-boo effects.

Completing the silhouette, technical knits are projected onto second-skin garments originally destined for lingerie. Innovative and more durable knits made from new blends – recycled polyamide or bi-stretch – offer unparalleled comfort while boasting technical performance like anti-UV and improved wicking… These gently hug and sheathe the body to create body-con catsuits and leggings embellished with tone-on-tone or colorful top-stitched contouring that slim the legs and bust, sometimes revealing the skin.

Light layers come together in a clever play of colors and prints that create a surprise effect. Tachist-style animal prints let these garments blend into their surroundings and discreetly conquer city streets.

Spaghetti strap tops come in plain mesh or animal prints offset by strap details on the bust or back, or metallic round buckles placed on the bodice like jewels. Built-in bras are fitted with removable, molded cups in Spacer mesh.

Completing the season’s long and lean silhouettes, sneakers are replaced by multi-strap mules with ultra-high heels, in smooth, polished, dynamic hues. Small structured bags with cut-out details are hand-held or worn over the shoulder.

Lace fully embraces its historic character, appearing with heightened materiality and ornamental guipures. Geometric decors tend toward abstraction while recalling stained-glass windows in ancient churches. Various sized circles converge and intertwine endlessly, evoking rosettes and friezes on old monuments. Triangles and rectangles appear as though chiseled by hand.

These laces appear on spectacular dresses enriched with historical details. Gigot sleeves are deliberately exaggerated and worked in transparent or dark metallic organzas. High collars nonetheless show flashes of skin thanks to large openings. Waists are defined, unfurling into long lace skirts constructed from asymmetrical panels and dotted with dark metallic effects reminiscent of pewter or medieval lead weapons.

Playing on the dramatic character of black, nuances alternate between matte, shine and transparency, to opulent effect.

Here and there, bold and extravagant accessories enhance the season’s mysterious mood. Flower brooches blossom on collars, while nipped waists are cinched with wide leather belts studded with opulent round or square buckles encrusted with stones, rhinestones and precious beads. Between these multicolored gems, long, silky feathers with moiré reflections evoke fragments of meteorite.