Technical Glossary: The Language of Denim The - Spring-Summer 26
Denim isn’t just a fabric; it’s a universal icon steeped in history and cultural heritage. What sets the cloth apart is its ability to adapt to different eras, morphologies, and styles. Its signature is its indigo dye, gradually fading over time, while wearing and transforming in myriad ways. Having originated in the workwear universe, denim is resistant and durable, yet accessible to all. Jeans crafted from this versatile fabric are a staple in every wardrobe, transcending time and trends, making them an integral part of daily life. Dive into the richness of denim with this practical glossary, an essential guide to understanding the technical terms and specific labels of the Jeanswear and Denim universe.
Fibers and Raw Materials
Cotton
One of the world’s most popular fibers. Of vegetable origin, it grows around the seeds of the cotton plant. A highly versatile, light, and resistant fiber, available in short, medium, long and extra-long staples.
Organic Cotton
Organic cotton is grown without the use of pesticides, herbicides or synthetic chemical fertilizers. Its production complies with strict ecological standards that protect the environment and promote responsible water use.
Regenerative Cotton
Regenerative agriculture embodies a holistic approach adapted to local conditions and aimed at restoring soil health and biodiversity. It is inspired by the ancestral practices of indigenous cultures, with a focus on social justice.
Post-Consumer Recycled Cotton
Fiber derived from pre-used cotton products (clothing, home textiles), which are collected, sorted, and then recycled.
Pre-Consumer Recycled Cotton
Recycled cotton fibers generated from textile scraps and waste (yarns and fabrics) recovered at various stages of the production cycle.
Hemp
A bast fiber extracted from hemp (cannabis sativa), that is lightly colored, with antibacterial properties and good breathability. It grows rapidly and the transformation processes involved in enhancing qualities such as softness are typically chemical-based.
Elastane
This synthetic material, typically present in small quantities (2% to 15%), adds elasticity to garments. A segmented polyurethane, and a by-product of petroleum, it has the ability to stretch up to 500 times its length and return to its original size.
Linen
One of the oldest and most durable textile fibers, extracted from the flax plant. It has a crispy, rough texture, with natural hues ranging from brown to gray. This plant grows quickly and easily, and requires little irrigation during cultivation.
Polyester
The most widely-used fiber in fashion, particularly in fast fashion. Synthetic in origin, it is derived from petroleum. Polyester materials are generally inexpensive, wrinkle-resistant and hard-wearing.
Viscose
Viscose is an artificial fiber made from natural cellulose, typically extracted from wood pulp. It undergoes a chemical process to transform it into yarn. Viscose is soft, light and fluid, with a silk-like texture.
Recycled Viscose
Recycled viscose is a fiber produced from cellulose recovered through chemical recycling, typically from textile waste or co-products from the food industry.
Spinning
Core Spun Yarn
A core spun yarn is made up of two threads: the core, and a second thread wrapped around it. Typically, the thread’s core is synthetic, while the outer is composed of natural fibers. This type of yarn combines strength, elasticity and comfort, and is often used for stretch fabrics such as that used for skinny jeans.
Dips
The term “dips” refers to the process of repeatedly submerging yarns or fabrics in a dye solution. The number of dips determines the intensity of the final color.
Slub Yarns
A slub yarn is one with intentional variations in thickness generated during the spinning process. These irregularities, similar to the natural variations found in linen, give fabrics a unique texture and look, often used to create rustic or textured effects in fabrics like denim.
Synthetic Indigo
Synthetic indigo, known for its stability and uniformity, was formulated by the German chemist Adolf von Baeyer in 1883 and was rapidly adopted by the industry. Natural and synthetic indigo are not water-soluble and do not penetrate deep into cotton fibers, which explains the fading of color during washes.
Vegetable Indigo
One of the oldest pigments in textile history, natural indigo is derived from plants, but its extraction process is complex, with synthetic indigo the preferred option today. Native to India, vegetable indigo was imported to Europe during the Greco-Roman era, where it was known as Indikón. The plant most commonly used for its extraction is the Indigofera tinctoria.
Gluing
A key stage in the preparation of warp yarns. It consists of applying a solution made from starch, gum, or natural or synthetic polymers to the warp yarns to enhance their resistance to friction and stress during weaving.
OE (Open-end)
Open-end spinning, also known as rotor spinning, was developed in the 1970s and rapidly adopted by the textile industry due to its faster production speed and lower costs compared to ring spinning. In this process, yarn is created directly from staple fibers.
Ring
The ring spinning process is one of the oldest and was the primary method until the advent of open-end spinning. The raw fiber is stretched to reduce its mass, then twisted to increase its strength, before being wound onto a bobbin. Albeit a more time-consuming and intricate process, it yields yarns that are stronger, softer, and more uniform, giving fabrics a classic appearance with subtle variations.
Rope Dyeing
In this dyeing method, the threads are twisted into a rope shape and then immerged many times in successive indigo baths before being exposed to open air. The number of sequences, or “dips,” determines the intensity of the indigo hue.
Slasher Dyeing
In this dyeing process, yarns are repeatedly passed in warp beam form through indigo dye baths before being sized and wound for weaving. Unlike rope dyeing, the yarns are not rope-shaped, but open. This method combines dyeing and finishing in a single process.
Topping and Bottoming (dyeing techniques)
During dyeing, indigo can be combined with other colors such as black, gray or ochre to create different shades of blue.
Sulfur Bottom: Yarns are first dipped in sulfur, then in indigo, creating a bluer outer layer and a less saturated interior.
Sulfur Top: Sulfur is applied after the indigo dyeing, giving a vintage look with greenish or grayish tones.
Weaves
Warp and Weft
Denim belongs to the world of warp-and-weft fabrics, where the vertical threads (warp) cross with the horizontal threads (weft). In classic denim, the warp threads are dyed with indigo, and the weft threads are woven from white cotton.
Twill
In this classic denim weave, the warp thread passes under two or more weft threads, creating a diagonal effect. The traditional denim twill typically features a 3/1 S weave, but can also be 2/1, where two weft threads cross over the warp threads (a weave generally used for shirting or lighter fabrics).
S or Z Twill
Z twill has a diagonal that slopes to the left, the opposite direction of the S twill.
Broken Twill
A specific weave where the traditional diagonal of twill is inversed, rising from the left to the right, creating a zigzag effect.
Cavalry Denim
A fabric characterized by prominent twill lines, with pronounced grooves formed by the weft.
Canvas
A plain-weave fabric where each colored warp thread passes over and then under each white weft thread.
Chambray
A lightweight, textured fabric with a plain weave, where each colored warp thread passes over, then under each white weft thread, creating a subtle heathered effect.
Selvedge
Selvedge refers to the finished edges of a roll of denim, which prevent fraying. This type of denim is woven on traditional looms, often using indigo-dyed yarns, and is characterized by its robust finish and dense texture. Selvedge is often regarded as a sign of quality.
Finishes and Dyes
Coating
A thin layer of paste spread over a fabric’s surface which can be applied in different ways and with different compositions. It may contain pigments or resins to modify the fabric’s appearance.
Mercerization
A process that enhances the smoothness and shine of a fiber.
Sanforization
A process designed to minimize fabric shrinkage, particularly used for cotton.
Fits and Accessories
Buttons
Classic jean buttons, known as rivet buttons, made of metal or plastic, are secured with a nail at the back of jeans and often engraved with the brand’s logo. They are used to reinforce areas like the fly.
Seams
The majority of the seams are visible, traditionally in camel, orange or yellow, contrasting with the blue of the fabric. Topstitching enhances durability, and lock stitches are added to secure tear-prone areas.
Fits
Jeans come in a variety of cuts and shapes which evolve with the times. Waistlines can be high, low, or mid-rise, and lengths can be cropped, ankle-length or full-length. For the lower leg, styles include straight, slim, tapered, skinny, relaxed, flared, loose, wide-leg, and more.
Hangtag
A label attached to jeans, often on the waistband, providing information about the size, the fit or the brand. The hangtag also serves as a marketing tool, highlighting the product’s technical or ecological features.
Jacron
A label traditionally made of leather and found on the rear of a pair of jeans, near the waistband.
Rivets
Rivets were originally designed to reinforce the seams at the pocket edges and enable workers to carry heavy loads. Today, they vary in size and color, but are generally made of metal (copper or brass) and used decoratively.
Zip
The zip, or zipper, is a fastening device made of metal or plastic. It consists of two strips with interlocking teeth, allowing for easy access.
Treatments and Washes
Abrasion
A term referring to worn areas on jeans, resulting from natural wear or produced deliberately to create a distressed, aged look.
Acid Wash
A fading technique using chemicals in a water bath to create a distressed effect and contrast on denim. This method produces a marbled, textured look by stripping some of the fabric’s original color.
Brushed
A finish that gives denim a worn look, produced using an electric or manual brush, creating a softer texture.
Cellulose Enzyme Wash
An eco-responsible washing method that uses enzymes to produce lighter shades of blue while preserving the fabric’s structure. The enzymes, which are living organisms, replace the use of pumice stones.
Washes
A key feature of denim is that indigo is a color that fades. Most jeans on the market, which are not raw (dark indigo), have undergone a washing process.
Distressed
A jean that has a worn, torn look, achieved through intense wear or produced mechanically or with laser, to create a vintage aesthetic.
Dip-dyes
A process where cotton threads are dipped in dyes, making the colors more intense depending on the number of immersions.
Coating
A coating applied to the surface to give the fabric a shiny or lacquered appearance.
Garment Dye
A dyeing method directly used on finished garments, allowing for post-production customization.
Grinding
A mechanical or laser-based fading process that removes parts of the fabric, creating a distressed look with rips and lighter spots. This method adds a visual dimension to denim, mimicking natural wear.
Laser
An eco-responsible process that removes the surface color of denim to create patterns, faded effects or whiskers.
Whiskers
Rows of horizontal creases found at the crotch, knees and thighs of jeans, created naturally by wear and tear, industrially through techniques like laser, or manually with sandpaper.
Nebulization
Nebulization involves spraying fine droplets of liquid onto denim to apply dyes or treatments. This process uses less water than traditional methods, enabling the creation of precise fading effects while maintaining the fabric’s integrity.
Ozone
A treatment that uses ozone gas to bleach denim, reducing the need for water and chemicals. This method bleaches the fabric without washing, creating fading effects while minimizing environmental impact.
PP Spray (PP: potassium permanganate)
The application of chemicals (such as bleaching agents) in a spray form on denim to create placement fading effects.
Raw Denim
Raw denim, also known as ‘unwashed denim,’ does not undergo any washing process and retains a dark indigo color.
Rinse
A process applied to remove the chemicals used during finishing, ensuring the garment is clean and ready to wear.
Stonewashed
A washing technique that uses pumice stones to create a worn, softer look for denim. It also produces color contrasts while preserving the integrity of the fabric.
Tacking
A technique that creates high-contrast fading and 3D effects on specific areas of denim. It involves temporarily attaching layers of fabric together with stitches to achieve a targeted fading effect.
Stone à gauche et ozone à droite / Sharabati denim, Pioneer Denim
Laser / Tusa Denim
To go deeper, check out our Leather Technical Glossary.