Textile Glossary: Woolens The - Fabrics
History
Until synthetic fibers emerged in the mid-20th century, transforming textile practices, the word ‘coat’ was used exclusively to indicate an outerwear garment made from wool. These garments were thus known as “woolens”, which thus excluded modern variants like puffers, parkas and anoraks. Today they are all loosely referred to as coats.
Characteristics
Woolens are designed to resist dirt and stains, as they are frequently exposed to dust and splashes. Depending on their intended use, they must be either:
- dense and thick, offering protection against harsh weather conditions
- or soft and puffy, for cozy, enveloping volumes
Composition
Wool is highly appreciated for its ability to felt, which makes it sturdy, insulating, and water-proof/breathable.
Wool blends made with approximately 20% polyester or polyamide can be stronger, and are less expensive than pure wool, though don’t necessarily provide better insulation.
Acrylic blends are common but are more subject to pilling.
Luxury fibers such as mohair, camel hair, and cashmere result in very fine quality ‘woolens’ that are soft and cozy, requiring specific treatments adapted to their unique fineness.
Types of woolens:
BROADCLOTHS:
History: The term drap, or broadcloth, originally referred to any piece of fabric, but later became specialized to describe heavy woolens used to make coats, which were crafted by drapiers (a highly respected trade) who fabricated milled woolens. In contrast, sergiers (a less rarefied trade) made twill fabrics like serges.
Technical Description: Woven woolens are processed through a fulling mill, where cylinders and mallets compress and rub the fabric, creating a felted look and feel.
Characteristics: Dense, durable, windproof, and water-resistant. Very resistant to fraying.
Product applications: Coats and jackets. More compact structures allow for raw-edge cuts.
Variants:
KABIG or CABAN
A wool originally from Brittany, fulled and calendared and therefore quite compact and resistant to sea spray.
LODEN
A broadcloth originally from Austria, fulled then brushed to align the fibers in a parallel direction, and rain resistant
DUFFLE
A broadcloth of Flemish origin, fulled then brushed, providing insulation from the cold.
WOOL VELVET
A fulled and brushed broadcloth. The raised fibers are brushed, shorn and can either stand upright or lie flat. Cozy and comfortable.
Please note: When worked in coat weights (starting from approximately 480gr/m2), the fabrics detailed in the “tailoring” chapter (tweed, herringbone, houndstooth, flannel, whipcord, gabardine, bouclette) are part of the “woolens” category.