How are virtuous artificial materials developed? The - Première Vision Paris - Denim Première Vision - Première Vision New York
Since the 1990s, production of cellulose-based man-made materials – viscose, Lyocell, cupro, modal and acetate – has doubled*. Conventional viscose is the oldest artificial fiber, sometimes still referred to as “artificial silk”. While its versatility of use is indisputable, it has nonetheless come under fire in recent years for its various impacts on the environment, biodiversity and health. An overview of the virtuous alternatives now available on the market.
Traceability is key
The question of raw material traceability is key: it’s important to ensure that wood comes from eco-managed forests. For a long time, artificial cellulose materials have been linked to the deforestation of ancient and endangered forests. FSC and PEFC certifications, and Canopystyle audits, enable us to distinguish supplies of sustainably managed wood.
The way viscose is processed requires the use of toxic chemicals, which can have an impact on human health and the environment in the absence of rigorous treatment of the gaseous emissions and wastewater generated during production.
ZDHC, Zero Discharge of Hazardeous Chemicals, has published guidelines** to accompany the evolution of transformation processes for man-made materials.
Therefore, solutions are multiplying to secure cellulosic supplies to combat deforestation, and guarantee maximised chemistry management thanks to reduced-impact processes.
Examples of virtuous alternatives
Ecovero™ viscose is sourced from sustainably managed, FSC-certified forests, with optimised processing with water use and CO₂ emissions reduced by half compared to generic viscose.
Liva reviva™ is a viscose fiber obtained from 30% recycled textile waste, combined with 70% FSC-certified wood pulp.
Naia™ acetate comes from sustainably managed pine and eucalyptus forests. Produced in a closed loop with solvent reuse and transformation processes meeting ZDHC chemical substances control, it is tested and certified for biodegradability in soil or freshwater, and compostability in industrial environments.
Birla Excel™ Lyocell is developed in a closed loop, with 99% reuse of the solvents used. The traceability of the wood cellulose used, not linked to deforestation, can be reinforced by the Green Track™ program, by incorporating additive markers at the heart of the fiber.
Ecocell™ is a Lyocell derived from sustainably managed wood cellulose, produced in a closed-loop process. When blended with Pima cotton, it produces fine, long fibers guaranteeing its longevity.
Smartcel is a Lyocell fiber enriched with a pharmaceutical zinc oxide that offers nourishing effects on the skin and UVA/UVB protection. Developed in a closed-loop process, its biodegradability is certified.
In order to diversify, artificial materials also make use of other resources, such as SeaCell™,an artificial fiber made from algae and sustainably managed wood pulp, with a reduced chemical impact transformation process, and Kamito, developed from Washi, traditional Japanese paper, made from sustainably managed wood or organic abaca, also known as manila hemp.
*Source Textile Exchange Materials Market Report 2023
**ZDHC Man-Made Cellulosic Fibers (MMCF) Guidelines 1.0