Spring-Summer 24 Fabrics: Tailoring The - Spring-Summer 24 - Fabrics - Première Vision Paris
Suitings lie at the heart of a changing fashion landscape. They can be combined with linen, another fiber grown from the earth, for fabrics with a dry nobility. But they can also embrace modernity, in light and springy versions. Meanwhile, tweeds remain eternally youthful, and play with bright colors and a fanciful rusticity.
Dry nobility
These dry and springy suitings make no compromises in terms of their composition. In worsted wool, mohair, or wool and linen blends, they epitomize a noble yet restrained elegance, a low-key charm. Blurred checks, end-on-ends and semi-plains underline surface irregularities – the hallmark of authentic natural fibers – in classic, slightly whitened hues.
Wool lightness
Nimble and lightweight super-fine wools in alpaca, merino, angora and cashmere get a boost from a clever blend of fibers. Elastane makes them springy, lyocell gives them suppleness and polyester provides endurance. Whether in women’s suit or shirt weights, these fabrics – open basketweaves, fine prunelle weaves, etamines, wool voile and other cool wools – are ready for action. They have a springy handle and lose their wrinkles instantly, always fresh, ready to go, practical and elegant.
Fancy rusticity
City tweed or country tweed? This star of the tailoring world refuses to choose. And this season tweed is mad for country life, going in for woody tones, in a rope or basketry vein. But it doesn’t shy from the sparkle of glittery pastels, and comes strewn with sequins, lamé and shiny yarns, with an oh-so-British charm. Here, a cotton fabric takes center stage to highlight luminous and acidic colors. There, fancy yarns create a shivering effect in rigorously graphic weaves. Tweed, it turns out, can do it all!
